Discover the Beauty of the O Circuit in Torres del Paine National Park

I remember very well that day a few years ago when I dared, alone, to venture through the Macizo Paine Circuit. That day, crossing the famous John Garner pass in Patagonia and in Torres del Paine National Park, known for its strong winds and adverse weather, I thought that never in my life had I been so amazed by the simple and primordial beauty of nature. I had come from a long and exhausting journey that had taken me to most of the Latin American countries, carrying my backpack from place to place.

That southern spring of 2013, I had decided to explore and get to know Patagonia, and by the coincidences of life, I had found a job inside the most beautiful and visited national park in Chile: Torres del Paine. During those beautiful months I spent working in one of the park's hotels, I discovered the great healing power that Nature has on our minds and especially on our spirits.

During the free days I had between shifts (that's how it works in Patagonia when the workplace becomes your home and your colleagues become friends), I had taken the opportunity to explore the trekking trails of Torres del Paine; starting with the simplest ones like Mirador Cóndor or Mirador los Cuernos, camping for a few days on the shore of the isolated and peaceful Laguna Azul, and of course walking the world-famous route known as the W Trek.

Being originally from northern Italy and living near the Dolomites, I already had previous experience with mountain hikes, including a bit of rock climbing and mountaineering knowledge. Even so, the mountain environment in Italy and Europe in general is much different; first of all, the summer weather is much more stable and easy to predict, many times we get used to walking in shorts and t-shirts all day long as the temperature remains pleasant. Phone and internet connection is practically widespread in all corners of those mountains, and there is no shortage of the possibility of reaching the summit of a hill or crossing a pass at two thousand and something meters and easily making a call or sending photos to your friends. Since I was a child, I got very used to the mountain huts that in the Dolomites are practically around every corner, usually 3 or 4 hours apart from each other, and in case a storm or bad weather arrives, you know where to seek shelter and a cup of hot coffee.

Generally, there are no campsites on trekking circuits, so for me, the challenge of facing this type of route also involved carrying the mountain tent, sleeping bag, food, and all the necessary equipment that a 7/8-day trekking expedition entails.

Spring gave way to summer, my knowledge of Torres del Paine was gradually expanding, as well as my confidence and ability to carry a loaded backpack for several kilometers, especially in a hostile environment like that of Patagonia. Finally, I had the opportunity to accumulate a few days off from work, February had arrived, and I felt ready to leave my comfort zone and face the challenge of exploring and getting to know the "hidden" part of this natural wonder on my own.

The Macizo Paine Circuit, internationally known as the Torres del Paine O Circuit, is a seven or eight-day route that must be completed counterclockwise around the peaks of the Paine Massif. In total, we are talking about walking independently for more than 100km, stepping on a wide variety of terrains such as extensive wind-swept pampas, pristine and humid Magellanic forests where the chance of coming face to face with a Huemul, the endemic deer of this corner of South America, is quite high; descending steep slopes with snow presence during the summer or zigzagging up granite blocks of moraine deposits as one approaches the Base Torres viewpoint or the incredible rocky amphitheater of the Mirador Británico in the French Valley.

It's hard to choose one part that is more beautiful than the others because the scenic beauty of this route lies in the fact that each day is different from the others. If you were to ask me today what I loved most during that first journey, I would undoubtedly say the day when you cross the John Garner pass, connecting the Los Perros camp with the Grey camp or Paso. From my personal point of view, that was an experience that marked a before and after in my life and convinced me once and for all to stay and live in Patagonia.

The ascent to the pass is first done by crossing the final part of the Lenga forest that fills the Los Perros valley for a little less than an hour; here it is very common to come across fallen trees, water pools, and a lot of mud especially if it is raining or has rained in the previous days; therefore, my advice is to carry gaiters in your backpack. Leaving the forest, we are much more exposed to the inclemencies of the Patagonian climate, and from there we have about two and a half more hours of ascent to reach the John Garner pass. In this section, you will find the typical vegetation of the high desert, which is of course very scarce since during the entire winter and until late spring this area is covered with snow. The trail in this part is almost absent, and the path is marked with cairns or stakes, because sometimes the clouds can be covering this area and visibility drops significantly. To cross this area, you must have good mountain navigation skills and knowledge; while the day is nice and beautiful, there will be no inconvenience, but if there is snow residue, heavy rain with low visibility, and gusts of wind typical of Patagonia, you must be very careful, and in some cases, if you are not with an authorized Park guide, the park rangers will not let you cross the pass if conditions do not allow it.

Personally, on one occasion with a group, I had to cross the pass in these types of conditions, and the truth is that we had to walk closely together, maintaining a distance of a couple of meters from each other due to the very low visibility, also limiting stops since the wind, cold, and hail or snow falling rapidly lowered body temperature. And that was at the beginning of summer, as I told you here the seasons mean nothing.

Once we crossed the John Garner, we found ourselves in a completely new world, at our feet is the imposing mass of the Grey glacier with its 35 km in length and 240km2; beyond that, the snowy peaks of the Patagonian Andes where other smaller glaciers that make up the Southern Ice Field can be seen, such as the Centinela, Pingo, or Tyndal glaciers. The descent is also delicate; first of all, just after crossing the pass and having reached a first panoramic balcony over the glacier, you have to turn sharply to the left (that would be south) and not continue descending as the slope of the hill would naturally indicate. With poor visibility conditions, there have been people who lost their way and the main trail and unfortunately lost their lives in this very delicate sector.

Once you reach the forest, the vegetation protects us again from the elements, although you must be careful where you place your feet since the slope becomes quite steep and the presence of roots and sometimes mud makes this sector quite problematic, especially if you are carrying a backpack with 15/18 kg of weight. Again, my advice to face this part and the others on the circuit is to bring some good trekking poles!

Once this descent, which lasts approximately 30 to 45 minutes, is over, a much simpler part follows in which the Grey glacier hides behind the evergreen Coigües that characterize this area, and finally, you must reach the Paso camp no more than an hour and a quarter, an hour and a half from the pass. This camping area is managed by CONAF, and although it is free, a prior reservation is required to stay overnight; in addition, all hikers must register so that the park rangers have a count of how many left Los Perros and how many are passing through Paso at the end of the day.

The second part of this long and exhausting day continues to enchant the hiker. The trail follows the western slope of the Cordon Olguin, with gentle ups and downs that allow you to continue glimpsing the Grey glacier located to our right; nowadays there are three suspension bridges that add safety, speed, and spectacularity to the route. Previously, when I did my first journey, you had to cross by going down and up wooden and steel stairs, which were quite unstable especially when it was windy or wet; so don't worry, with the current state of the trail and the bridges, you will reach the Grey camp and refuge in about three hours of walking from the Paso camp. In my opinion, this is the part of the entire Macizo Paine Circuit that will be well marked in your memory for its unforgettable scenic beauty.

The O Circuit of Torres del Paine is an experience that will not only amaze you with its incredible views, varied landscapes, and well-preserved trails, but rather it will be an experience of challenge and personal improvement. I invite you then to travel to Puerto Natales to encourage you to discover this natural wonder that Chile has known how to care for and preserve, but above all, I invite you to leave behind the comforts of the city and the everyday to embark on adventure and be amazed at what we can achieve simply by carrying what is necessary on our backs and facing the rigorous climate of Patagonia, so capricious but that makes us feel alive and present in this beautiful world!